Ray B. Nulod - Team Apache
Here's a trick: If you have a cocker valve tool, drill a hole in the side of the end that sticks out of the gun. Make the hole big enough for a hex wrench so you can use the hex wrench instead of a crescent wrench if you're in a hurry.

Sean Takeda - Team Subzero
Another little tip which can help with losing removable screws on you guns.  Teflon tape works wonders on holding screws in place.  Place a small piece on screws to prevent them from coming out.  Another method would be to use a small dab of removable locktite (#242 I believe, the color is blue).  Make sure that the screw is free from oil and debris first.  This method works well on holding the cocking rod in place on Autocockers.  Just make sure that you use "removable" locktite, or ya might have some trouble getting it out later.

For those "aluminum" screws which strip out on you due to over tightening, you can replace them with Stainless Steel screws which you can find at local hardware stores.  These screws cost a little more than the aluminum screws, but are well worth it in the long run.  They also last much longer.  Another little trick which will make it easy to remove without tools are plastic caps which can be placed on the screw head (on knob type screws not button or machine screws).  Simply press the caps on the screw and tap it into place with a rubber/plastic mallet.  This works especially good with those of you playing with Bushmaster type pump guns with dual sided pumps.

** Player TRUK4U <TRUK4U@aol.com> wrote:
Hello. I saw that you have used both a Autocoker and a Mag.  I am wader which Mag was that and which gun did you like better.  Please respond in as much detail as possible and as soon as possible.  Send it to truk4u@aol.com  Thank
you very very much

Hey TRUK4U,
Between the Autococker and the Minimag, it's strictly personal preference.  I have had and played with the Autococker for a longer amount of time.  The Minimag was acquired a few years ago, however, I have adjusted to play well with both.

The Ups and Downs of the Autococker
 
        The Autococker is a very accurate, well balanced gun.  Though on the larger side, it is fairly easy to operate, and shoots remarkably well.  The older cockers (before the lightened 97's) were a little heavier, but if you are going to use a High Pressure System (HPS), what's a little more weight.  As far as maintenance, it is a little more complex than the Automag family.  It has more seals, hoses, and moving parts that the mags as well.  Cleaning this gun on the field simply consists of removing the bolt and running your swab through.
        In my opinion, a well tuned Cocker will shoot more consistent the Mags, and I believe a little farther as far as distance.  They can also shoot at a lower pressure thanks to the new low pressure chambers which are available.  If you are planning on using C02, I would recommend using a Budd Orr reg (or any other type of reg) to help keep the pressure of the gun consistent (about 550-650 PSI on a stock Autococker).
        On the downside, when an Autococker has a problem, it has a problem.  Unless you know this gun well, you may have to take it to an air smith to tune it up for you.  These problems would include adjusting the timing of the gun, to replacing hoses or internals.  Other than that, it is a well built marker.

The Ups and Downs of the Mag family.
 
        The Automag is a lightweight, marking machine.  The design is simple, yet very effective.  Definite pluses about the mag would include ease of cleaning and maintenance.  Since the only thing moving on this gun is the bolt (with exception to the trigger and sear), it is pretty much a fool proof gun.  It shoots rather consistent, and has an impressive rate of fire for the experienced player.  Another definite feature (which is optional with the mag, a feature with the Mini, Micro, and RT) is the power feed.  The RT runs on HPS only, you cannot use C02.
        With my experience with the mags, it is a great "shoot right out of the box" gun, without having to do any modifications.  One downside, Mags have a tendency to "spike" on the first shot.  This means that the gun can shoot in excess of 300 FPS when you have it dialed to 280  FPS.  If you plan on running C02, I would suggest getting a regulator to prevent this.

Summary - Both guns are excellent.  A few things you may want to consider before buying a paintgun would be:
1. How much you are willing to spend.  This includes overall cost you plan on spending to upgrade, modify, etc. your paintball gun.
2. What type of upgrades you plan on doing in the future.  If you plan on buying additional barrels, HPS, regulators, expansion chambers, etc., it can be rather expensive.
3. Are you the type of person who wants to have a low maintenance or high maintenance gun.  Ask people who you know, players on the fields, etc about the gun and routine maintenance which they perform on their markers.

I would definitely suggest shooting and playing with both guns before you decide to buy.  One big difference is the type of action that the gun has.  The Cocker has a slide trigger, versus the rocking trigger on a mag.  Whatever you decide, I assure you that you should be happy with either choice, as long as you know your gun.

Good Luck!

**Player Charles Griffin <CGriffin@styberg.com> wrote:

I have a request for you.  I would like to purchase a gun and I have narrowed it down to three guns.  A spyder, f-4 Illustrator, or a raptor.  I have read a lot about the spyders so could you provides some info on the illustrator and the raptor. Any help is greatly appreciated

Chuck Griffin

PS  keep up the good work

Hey Charles,
        First of all, I would like to say all the guns you would like to buy are good choices, all about the same price range $180-220.  You have mentioned that you have already read about the spyder, so you know that there are a few versions of this gun, with the latest being the SE (Special Edition).
        As far as the F-4 Illustrator, taken from the data at PMI, it features a bore-drop breech barrel, with a top cocking connecting pin (cocking handle).  It comes with a 10" polished alum. barrel, composite receiver (like delrin plastic), reinforced ball drop tube, PMI Eurogrip, vertical bottle adapter, Euro-bottom line, striker plug velocity adjuster along with an adjustable bolt (with tool included).  It is similar to the spyder as far as action (has a little kick, and the trigger pull).  I can't remember if this gun has a power feed on it.  Other than that, not a bad gun for the money.  Retail: ~199
        The gun you wanted nfo on was the Brass Eagle (Model 1440 is the standard. 1441 come with streamline setup) Raptor.  As taken from the Brass Eagle Web Page, this gun features the following features: aerospace grade aluminum alloy receiver with anodized finish, triple sight rails, vertical front bottle attachment, "self locking" velocity adjustment and power feed.  The gun is Hunter Green with black lower receiver.  Standard 3/8" dovetail sight mount on top and sides for point sight attachment.  Also accepts Sidecar squeegee carrier.   Works well with either CO2, compressed  air or nitrogen.  Vertical front bottle attachment for compact handling.  Field strips quickly. Cocking handle doubles as a connecting pin remover.  Accepts standard after market grip covers for government model .45s. Drilled  and tapped for "Duckbill" bottom line.  Takes a standard 3/16" Allen wrench to adjust velocity.   Easily fires 7+ shots per second.  Power feed assists gravity in feeding enough balls to keep up with trigger pulls.  Length 20.5"   Weight 3.6 lbs. Retail $179
        All the guns weigh about the same, and are fairly light.  I would suggest shooting each of them to see which one you like better out of preference.  I personally would choose the Spyder, just because of my experience with this gun (pretty much problem free, and shoots 99% of the time).  It is not the most accurate gun, but is a good gun for the money.  All the guns are fairly simple to take apart, clean, and maintain.  Parts are relatively inexpensive for these guns as well (well, maybe not for S/S barrels), but have to say that they are more readily available for the Spyder.
Feel Free to ask questions anytime, till then...Happy Paintball'n!

Oh yeah, Good luck on your selection!

** Player Marc Gervais-Kyle <MKyle@rocketmail.com> wrote:
        Which do you prefer better C02 or Nitro?  What are some of the advantages and disadvantages between the 2?  I am running remote, and have had problems every once in a while with the bottle adapter leaking.  Also, I have a Minimag and would like to know what are some of the barrels for my gun.  I have a stock barrel right now, and it seems to be pretty loud.

Hey Marc,
        As far as C02 and Nitro (HPS) are concerned, I guess it comes down to how much money you want to spend on your air system.  C02 is just fine.  It is cheaper to buy, however, a little more to fill (unless you have your own tank and fill station).  C02 runs at a pressure about 500-700 PSI at room temperature.  If you play in areas where it gets rather warm or just flat out hot, I would suggest buying a reg for the gun to keep the pressure into the gun between these ranges.  When it gets hot outside, the pressure can rise to dangerous level which can either cause the Burst disc on the bottle to blow (safety precaution on all C02 bottles) or can cause hoses, etc. on the gun to blow.  There is a good possibility that the gun will flat out stop working properly.
        I know that you had mentioned that you are running a remote on your setup.  You had also mentioned that you have a bottle with a Tipmann valve (push-pin), with a "dial on/off" bottle adapter, which you have been having problems getting C02 flow through your remote.  I would suggest getting an on/off valve on the bottle itself.  This way you don't have to depress any pins on the bottle to power the air on.  It is also easier to shut off should you have a problem with C02 leaking.  You can also get a slide check on/off which runs from your fitting to the hose.  You can shut the air off and remove the hose without having to turn the air off on the bottle.